Chiang Rai Trip write-up (Credit: Francis Chan)
Having 12 participants was quite an achievement, considering no one could cross international borders for leisure purposes. Thus, the usual suspects who would fly in from Singapore were missing. Still, it was a formidable load for the two vans and one truck that brought our group, together with donated goods, to no fewer than seven places in the 3-day charity trip in the mountains of Wiang Kaen district (Chiang Rai province) wedged on the Laotian border. While most came from Bangkok on early-morning flights on Oct. 24, a public holiday, a few, apparently known as “Charlie’s Angels,” decided to have their R&R (rest and recreation) in Chiang Rai town for a few days before departing for the mountains. While one wonders why R&R was performed “before” rather than “after” a heavy-duty trip, it soon became clear that the entire 3 days in the mountains was also a kind of R&R. We do not need to explain that good eating, drinking, card games (I heard but did not see), country walks, sunrise viewing, and luxurious spa treatment do count as R&R.
Still, the main purpose was engagement with hilltribe villagers, schoolchildren and residents in these areas. The first day saw a trip to inspect the huge Anuban Kindergarten that lacked toilets. Logistics was discussed and deliberated on, and arguments concerning measurements and location of future toilets were exchanged. It was uncertain if a final conclusion was achieved, but in any case we proceeded up the mountains to officiate toilets at Pandinthong School with 100% ethnic Hmong students, who treated us to an all-female ethnic dance in full costume. Many were captivated by this gesture. It was already dusk when we arrived at our accommodation – Phatang Hill Resort – toward the mountain top, just in time for the spectacular blood-red sunset, and a spectacular dinner, one of the highlights being black chicken soup with Chinese herbs. By now the mountain weather was truly felt in our bones, and a proper hot shower was in the works. We were lucky that the water heater worked (most of the time, anyway) but someone expressed discomfort showering in front of a gaspowered flammable contraption that sounded eerily like a breathing human, so he claims.
In the following pre-dawn hours, a group of early birds made a sunrise trip to “the mountain that points to the sky.” They later complained about how the walk up and down the mountain had been heavy on the physical body, though they were also delighted with the hundreds of calories burned. But this early physical exertion was no match for the marathon in the day ahead. The first stop of the day – Yusuk Village – saw the youngish headman organizing households to receive a set of necessities that included warm clothing, blankets, dried food and other things. All SCOT members participated in the distribution. Some villagers wore their brilliant ethnic Akha costumes ostensibly to display their identity to us urbanites. Many of the recipients looked elderly and frail, some having walking difficulties. However, when it comes to receiving the gifts, it was amazing that they each could hold up 2 thick blankets, 2 pieces of heavy warm clothing, additional donated clothes, a bag containing 9 packets of instant noodles, and other stuff in their 2 hands without the slightest difficulty.
After a short stop at the Chanat Piyavee Border Patrol Police School to check on the progress of a “self-sufficiency” fruit farm that we sponsor, it was lunch time, and this was another occasion that proves good food is always an essential part of our trips. The fact that there were two different fish dishes in an area as far from the sea as anywhere possible in Thailand escaped our notice. All that mattered was they tasted good. It was at this point that we discovered a few members had upset stomachs from unknown causes, but apparently this ailment was miraculously cured later in the night by whiskey therapy, according to those who indulged in this ancient style of healing.
The second area of distribution of the day was a test of our physical prowess. Getting there involved exchanging the comfortable seats in our vans for the back of a truck opened to the elements, and going up and down hills for more than a kilometer (at least for the men, and “honorary” men – women who dared to jump onto the back of the truck). Those in their 40s and 50s suddenly remembered their age, and were apprehensive. To our surprise, we survived, proving that age is but a number. Arriving at Baannong Village, the distribution of necessities was done, again with participation of all SCOT members. Afterward, a village elder invited us to go “above” to see the village houses. This involved another trip at the back of the truck climbing at a near 45-degree angle. By now, we were experts at “truck-back” travel, and we even became comfortable and grateful, benefitting from exercising our biceps and triceps while holding on to dear life as the truck traversed the muddy cliffs. Those brave enough to stand up during this ordeal had the additional risk of decapitation by tree branches, if they didn’t keep watching ahead. Seeing the houses was a great learning experience. We saw that they have some of the household necessities we urbanites have, such as TVs and refrigerators, albeit in extremely basic surroundings such as an earthen floor. We saw and learned that each household has a pig, which is slaughtered during festive time and the meat preserved and slowly consumed throughout the year by the family.
Back to civilization, the next stop was the decent-looking Panghud Sahasat School. About a dozen primary and secondary students were already seated on chairs waiting to be interviewed. These were to be sponsored to assist in their education, mostly for such mundane but necessary things as the bus fares to and from their homes. The second night atop Phatang Hill Resort was even merrier than the first, with a steamboat and bottles of sparkling wine being popped. Since it was the last night, and with upset stomachs having been rendered a non-issue, at least by will power, the nocturnal card games became even more boisterous - again I heard but did not see.
In the following pre-dawn, as usual, there was that group of diligent calorie burners – those too conscientious to be sleeping off the whiskey and activities the night before. But this time, the joggers had a secret mission. This was revealed when they were seen quietly exchanging information on the various types of accommodation they had surveyed on the mountain side. Surely they were evaluating and analysing the pros and cons, and weighing everything in terms of “value-for-money,” in order to suggest the best offer for the next trip. We don’t mind paying but it must be worth it – this is the epitome of kiasu-ness, and we are proud of it.
Our last official stop, Ban Muang Yai School, was a picture of law and order, and cleanliness. To start with, even the sun shone brightly on the spotless grounds and the air was crisp and clear. From the moment we arrived, everything had been planned to the minutest detail – the choral recitation in English by male pupils, the Northern dances by female pupils, the lunch they treated us to -- coming when we hardly started to digest breakfast. The highlight of the morning was officiating a set of toilets that we sponsored. We were brought to a kind of podium. On the left stood the school principal. On the right stood the President of the Singapore Club of Thailand. It looked uncannily like a Trump-Biden debate moment. But a debate it definitely was not -- more like a diplomatic summit, in which the two officials gave speeches in each other’s language, lending to the air of diplomacy and officialdom. Then the toilets were opened, literally with a big bang! Was that explosion actually planned? Or was it a short circuit?
The 3 days of activities must surely have taken a toll on some of our members, for they headed straight to a hilltop exclusive spa. Others were not ready to give in to fatigue. They were off for a shopping trip in the city, before flying back to Bangkok late at night.
By now, it must surely dawn upon anyone that something so humble and lowly as toilets are a mainstay of the charity wing of the Singapore Club of Thailand, reflecting our high standards of hygiene and cleanliness. It is now proven that cleanliness is not only a Singaporean trait but also one of its exports.
